Our experiment is predicated upon keeping good health. We have been fortunate so far, but are fully aware that neither one of us is a spring chicken. The frailty of our health was brought to light just few days before we were to depart for our next trip, an eight-week trip through Spain, Greece and Turkey, when Meera twisted her ankle badly and we had to go to an urgent care facility. She was asked to wear an orthopedic boot for 3-4 weeks. That threatened our planned trip to Europe.
However, as it turned out, she started feeling much better in five or so days and we decided to continue as planned. This was our third trip to Spain and we wanted to cover Madrid and the Basque Country. It would be our first time in the other two countries.
Meera travelled with her orthopedic boot but did not need a wheelchair. He walking was slow but she was not in any pain. We flew the cut-rate Norwegian Air to Madrid, a ten-hour flight. We had heard horror stories about Norwegian and also were concerned that it would also meet an early demise like Wow airlines from Iceland. Our experience was quite positive. We flew in a new Boeing 787-900, and the service wasn’t bad at all. I liked the option of windows not having shades but instead ability to adjust electronically the darkness. This way one can envision keeping the window semi-dark to prevent fellow passengers who don’t like sunlight from howling, but making it transparent when scenery below becomes good…damn the howlers.
We reached Madrid in the afternoon and checked into our hotel. It was a curious hotel, in that the whole place was a big apartment in a building divided into 12 small rooms. The receptionist sat in a tiny windowless cubical. Three keys were required to enter our room, the main door of the building, the main door of the apartment and our own room door.
The location of our hotel was however excellent. It was within a very short walking distance from Plaza Mayor, a major hub of activities in Madrid. This was important for us, as Meera’s walking ability was limited. Also important was the proximity to bus stand. We purchased a two-day pass on hop-on-hop-off bus and used it quite a bit.
--------------------------------------
We both liked Madrid a lot. It is a city filled with broad avenues and squares. Although it is crowded and vibrant, it feels safe (unlike, say Rome). Like Paris, much of the life revolves around al fresco dining, but the waiters are not as surly.
The information office in Plaza Mayor made us aware of the two-day passes we could get on ho-on-hop-off buses. As seniors the cost was only 13 Euros each. There are two lines, one covering the old Madrid, the other new. We rode the entire old Madrid route on two consecutive days. It provided a wonderful way to explore the city when the mobility was limited. We also used it to go to specific destinations, such as the world famous Prado museum.
Prado museum is probably the best museum we have ever been to. We liked it even more than Louvre and found it to be less crowded. The paintings are arranged according to artists’ country and displayed in numerous rooms on three floors. The largest numbers of paintings are those of Spanish artists, naturally, and you can see are several major works of Goya, Velasquez and El Greco. On display are The Executions, and La Majaby Goya, Las Meninas by Velasquez, and The Adoration of the Shepherdsby El Greco, amongst many equally famous paintings. In addition, they have lots of paintings by Italian and Flemish artists (Rubens, Raphael, Titian) as well. The audio guide, available for a small fee, is excellent. In spite of Meera’s injury, we were able to navigate the museum and had a great time.
Another interesting experience in Madrid was meeting an elderly couple, friends of our Boston friends. This adventurous couple (both in 70s) decided to explore the retired life in a big way. They have been living in Turkey for over a decade (they are citizens) and they maintain a second home in Madrid. We got to see them because they happened to be in Madrid when we visited. We sipped wine, ate anchovies and talked and talked. There was so much in common among us and our conversation was productive. We truly admire their adventurous spirit and lust for life. Not sure if we will emulate them someday, perhaps not. We have a strong pull of living near our children…they have none.
An interesting sight in Madrid is street-hawkers from Africa. There are quite a few and they display their wares on a sheet of cloth. A simple contraption of four ropes tied at each end of the sheet allows them to fold the display at a moment’s notice and thereby be in compliance of law whenever a policeman is sighted. The cat-and mouse game of police appearing and hawkers folding went on repeatedly. We were amused but also sad. No one needs to live like that, on the edge of life.
We stayed in Madrid for three more nights after coming back from the Basque Country. That time we visited the Royal Palace and the Reina Sophia museum, which houses the famous Guernica painting by Picasso. We also enjoyed a dinner with our new friends.
In addition, we spent one day in Toledo, which was (is) a major center for Christians and Jews. Its Cathedral is absolutely astounding and worth seeing.
Fortunately, Toledo is a 35-minute ride on a fast train from Madrid. We spent more time in the process of buying tickets (utterly confusing) and waiting for our train, almost two hours, than the ride itself. One fun aspect of the trip was meeting a couple from Perth, Australia. Nice folks.