Athens conjures up two images. It is the cradle of Western civilization, and it is the capital of a modern country in financial trouble. Both our images were burnished by our time there. The city has so many remnants of its past glory that are well preserved and displayed, that even a person not particularly interested in history would be charmed and informed. Also, yes it is a poorer country than France or Italy, or even Spain. The condition of infrastructure indicates that situation. However, the population seems happy and there are fewer homeless people than in California.
The place where we stayed in Athens, Plaka, is right under the majestic Acropolis and is a beehive of activities. No question, the neighborhood thrives on tourism but we think that the locals are equally responsible for keeping the neighborhood thriving. We had heard so much about pickpockets in Athens, but we felt safer there than in, say, Rome.
Of course, the crown jewel of antiquity in Athens in Acropolis, located on a treeless hill in the center of the city. You can see it from practically anywhere in the city, even from the terrace of our modest hotel in Plaka. It is impressive and majestic. One needs to climb a bit to get there and stand in line to get the entry ticket. We got a combo ticket for 30 Euros (each), which allowed us entry in Acropolis as well as several other sites. Everything is automated and functions smoothly.
Parthenon is the main structure people think of when Acropolis is mentioned.
An enormous temple built to worship Athena, the patron goddess after which the city is named. It is imposing and well preserved/restored. In addition, people marvel at the construction techniques used to make it look uniform. For example, the columns are slightly bent to correct for optical distortion when seen from below. Further, this neat modification also strengthens the structure against earthquakes. The folks who constructed this beautiful building were superb civil engineers.
There are several other structures in Acropolis. Erechtheion
is rather a small temple on side of Parthenon. However, it was a more important a place for worshipping than its bigger cousin. Then there are structures at the entrance gate that are as elaborate as what lies inside the complex with Propylaea, the entrance gate dominating the scene. All in all, it is a deeply satisfying place to visit.
Besides Acropolis, there are several sites worth visiting. Fortunately most are a walking distance from Plaka. Of special note are Ancient Agora (or market place) and Roman Agora. The Ancient one is where Socrates and Plato once walked. It was the center of town, with temples and markets. Now, some ruins are left untouched, some monuments are restored and one is totally rebuilt in its original image. The Roman Agora is less impressive and smaller, but it too was a place to gather during the Roman times. The Temple of Olympian Zeus
is amazing with very tall columns. Only fifteen of the original hundred survive. They beg the question…how were they built? Keramaikos is an ancient cemetery with a very nice museum, worth visiting. And then there are ruins of Library of Hadrian, a Roman emperor.
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