We woke up at 5 a.m. this morning to observe the local people (and hordes of tourists) give alms to Buddhist monks. This activity is advertised as an “experience” one can have in Luang Prabang by travel websites. We decided to take a morning walk to observe this activity on our own, making us feel little less touristy!
It happened to be a full moon night and the moon was still bright in the sky. We arrived at a street corner that was well lit up by streetlights. There were at least fifty or more tourists when we came and the number doubled quickly. There were a few local ladies selling sticky rice in bamboo baskets, which one can buy to offer it to the monks. Since it was not clear to us what the protocol was we decided to just sit out and observe. We decided that in return for the photographs that we will inevitably take, we will offer a donation to the temple later in the day.
Slowly, groups of saffron clad monks, many young some older appeared, walking in a single file. People offering alms were sitting on a stool and would put small amount of usually sticky rice in the “bat” that the monks were holding. There were no niceties exchanged and no eye contact.
We have many questions on this tradition of boys becoming monks in many Buddhist societies including India, Thailand, Nepal, and Laos. We went for a “chat with the monks” in a temple in Bangkok few days back. The four boys we spoke with were between 14-18 years old. They have a very structured and disciplined life. They have to wake up early to pray and then go to collect alms for their breakfast and mid-day meal. They are not supposed to eat after that. They drink water and sometime Ovaltine at night. Talk about intermittent fasting! But these are teenage boys. They said first it is hard to follow these rules but then one gets used to it.
They learn reading, writing, science, math, languages as well as religious studies. They help do the chores of the temples and are allowed to continue being a monk for as long as they want. Some do decide to leave and return back to the regular life. One seventeen-year old monk said that he was going to leave the monastery and go help his mother earn money and put his younger brother through school. One eighteen-year old was recently elected class president was more committed to the monk way of life. He was able to articulate that he liked the discipline that Buddha taught him. He felt safe and secure.
One of our tour guides in Laos had been a monk for thirteen years. He mentioned that this was the only way he could have studied. He learned to speak French and English. He also felt that he grew up to be a better person having spent his formative years in a monastery. Then he left it, got married and now has a family as well as a job as a tour guide. We personally know a young Indian man who became monk for a few years to find himself and a purpose in life and then dis-robbed to enter the society again.
We can form our own opinions about this way of helping young boys learn maturity but it is certain that becoming a monk is well respected in these societies. People do consider giving alms to monks as a pious thing to do.
Following explanation about Sai bat from the official Luang Prabang website:
Sai Bat (Morning Alms) is a longstanding tradition in Laos Buddhist culture. In observing it, the devoted offer food to monks throughout the Luang Prabang every morning. This is sustenance for the monks, so great care is taken in preparation (and visitors wishing to take part should follow guidelines to ensure that they make appropriate offerings).
Each morning, starting at around 05:30, saffron-robed monks and novices emerge onto the streets with their alms bowls (‘bat’).
Awaiting them are Lao people who have already taken the time to prepare sticky rice and other foods; they will place a portion in the bowl of each monk who passes by. The ceremony is undertaken in complete silence.
Observe the ritual in silence and contribute an offering only if it is meaning for you and can do so respectfully. If you do not wish to make an offering, please keep an appropriate distance and take care not get in the way of the monk procession. For those making offerings: 1). Buy sticky rice at the local market earlier that morning and from the vendors who prepare to sell the rice at points along the monks’ route; 2). Do not stand too close to the monks when taking photographs; also, camera flashes are very disturbing for both monks and the lay people; 3). Dress appropriately: shoulders, chests and legs should be covered; 4). Do not make physical contact with the monks and try to stay at least 5 meters away from monks if you are observing the ceremony; 5). Remember that large buses are forbidden within the Luang Prabang World Heritage site and are extremely disturbing in this context; 6). Never follow the procession on a bus, as this will put you above the monks, which in Laos is disrespectful; 7). Take part in the alms giving ceremony by protecting its dignity and its beautiful.
Meera 23 February 2019
Comments